Three months of simply living in a place where none of my ancestors had ever been.
Although most people come to Nepal for meditation retreats, yoga, or Everest, we just wanted to live in a new place. A city full of chaos, noises, colors, smells, and relentless movement, and I fell for it, deeply.
This practice of slow traveling gave us a unique and intimate experience in a place that few people stop long enough to feel.
A typical conversation we kept having, several times a day:
"So, what are you doing here? Trekking or yoga?"
"Neither. We live here, we talk to people, we look around. We go grocery shopping, and sometimes to the hairdresser."
Kathmandu isn’t an easy city. It’s tough, noisy, chaotic, and far from smooth or comprehensible. But if you let it, it will offer you moments of wild honesty: a small table on a rooftop, a smile from a local woman, the wingspan of a circling bird.
Those of you who have only three days in wild, still tender Kathmandu make sure to create unforgettable memories.
(Day 1) Thamel & Durbar Square
Morning
Himalayan Arabica Beans Coffee
They roast their own Himalayan Arabica beans and run a barista school. Their coffee is great. We would also suggest to drink seasonal fruit cocktails (papaya and mango are divine). We spent many slow mornings there, people-watching and sipping slowly, talking to every stranger.
The entrance to Hanuman Dhoka Museum Art Gallery
Afternoon visit
This is the historic heart of Kathmandu—temples (Taleju Temple, Madyo Parvati Temple, Jagannath Temple), palaces (Hanuman Dhoka), and the Hanuman Dhoka Museum Art Gallery. Make sure to visit the Kumari Ghar, the house of the Living Goddess Kumari—a young girl believed to be the earthly incarnation of the goddessTaleju* (Kali). If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of her at the window. We wandered for hours without a plan, letting the old stones and sudden colors speak for themselves.
Lunch
A hidden gem we returned to again and again. A fusion of Nepali and Middle Eastern cuisine, with warm, welcoming staff who always remembered us. Seasonal Buddha bowls, paneer vegetable momo, dal bhat, and banana lassi—eating soul food, relaxing on the pillows
Street in Thamel (Narsingh Chowk Marg)
Gallery stop №1
We saw a temporary solo exhibition by Tenzin Norbu, alongside collections of Doplo handicrafts. Walking through it felt like stepping into a magical book, painted with history and life, revealing the rich traditions of the Dolpo region. You can check their Facebook page for current exhibitions of the Doplo Gallery in Kathmandu or other cities. Trust the KISIMAKA Gallery’s curation. We believe every exhibition they host is thoughtfully chosen and worth experiencing.
Gallery stop №2
A small but interesting gallery in the city center, showcasing both traditional and modern art.
Evening Bar
A legendary bar run by a warm-hearted Austrian woman named Sam, who’s been welcoming travelers since the 1990s. For a cultural experience, come here and have a Gorkha Beer—the most popular local brew.
(Day 2) Garden of Dreams, Temples, and Eagle-Feeding
Morning visit and breakfast
Garden of Dreams A poetic name—and an even more poetic place. We spent mornings there, writing and letting the sun melt time. The restaurant on site serves beautifully prepared meals. The Garden feels like heaven.
Swayambhu Buddha Park Entrance
Afternoon visit
A slow walk through this temple complex feels like passing through layers of belief. Vivid colors, prayer wheels, children playing, a baby monkey falling from a tree, monks chanting, the smell of incense, and hundreds of colorful flags. We sat by the Stupa watching the sky, the people, and the motion of life. Don’t miss the large Buddha statue on the western side.
Visit the stone carver’s workshop near the Swayambhunath Stupa. He carves stone tablets (known as mani stones), featuring mantras and sacred symbols. Buy a small piece as a keepsake from the lovely, hardworking man who runs the shop.
Nagarjun Region’s Viepoint
Lunch time with Eagles
Everything that happens in Kathmandu, seem to be like a vivid dream. Around 4 PM, the owner and his wife feed a skyful of eagles from the rooftop. One afternoon, while we were eating fruits and working, he invited us to join. We watched and helped to toss meat into the air as dozens of wild birds swirled above, fighting, screeching, screaming,—free. It was chaotic and beautiful —a moment that made no sense and perfect sense at the same time . Order banana lassi, fresh fruits, and their momos; you can’t go wrong. If you have time, hike 15 minutes further to Tergar Osel Ling Monastery.
Gallery stop
A larger museum with paintings, sculptures, traditional utensils, and everyday objects—a powerful way to connect more deeply with Nepali history and heritage.
(Day 3) Morning Yoga, Markets, and Goodbye
Morning yoga
Come to the 7AM class with our teacher Suman. His classes grounded us during my stay. Just breath, stretch, become stronger with every move. It’s all for you, using the energy of the sunrise to welcome a new day. That is apart of the practice.
Lovely girls from the Organic Smoothie Bowl and Cafe (they asked us to take a picture)
Breakfast
Organic Smoothie Bowl and Cafe
One of the best cafes in the city. The workers became our family members—feeding us food they made for themselves, and hugging. Try the smoothie bowl, the mushroom burger, or simple scrambled eggs. And say hi from Knarik and Katie.
Afternoon visit
One of the most radiant places I’ve ever been. Sit, walk, don’t rush, meditate, remind yourself to be grateful for seeing such incredible places. Just let it fill you. Circle the stupa again and again to release sorrow and absorb peace. This is what we did.
Optional
Pashupatinath Temple Cremation Site
We went there out of curiosity, but found it too heavy for us. Trust your instincts: if you feel ready, it can be a powerful and deeply meaningful place to witness. It offers a rare and respectful glimpse into local traditions around death and transition. If you’re not too sensitive, it’s a place worth visiting with openness.
Alternative
Take a half-day momo cooking class—joyful, hands-on, and a great way to connect with a delicious tradition.
Lunch
The Shop in the Saat Ghumti Marg
Souvenirs to buy and remember this magical place
- Nepalese art
- Lokta paper and posters
- Hand-embroidered T-Shirts
- Woolen hats, scarves, socks
- Incense sticks
- Small prayer wheels from the temples
- Momo spice powder
- Colorful prayer flags called Lungta
- Himalayan honey and body oils
This chaotic city helped us to see ourselves with honesty and courage. It made us feel connected to the local people—until, somehow, we began to feel completely at home in a place that once only lived in our vivid dreams. Memories of Kathmandu amaze us every single day. They stay with us.