Tucked away in the lively streets of Sheung Wan, surrounded by towering skyscrapers and the hum of modern Hong Kong, stands a quite lonely but powerful Man Mo Temple. We first stumbled upon it after wandering for hours through antique shops and local restaurants nearby.

Our steps slowed as soon as we saw it. We knew nothing about its history or what awaited inside, only the striking contrast between its elegance and the city’s steel skyline. The unmistakable scent of burning incense drifted toward us. That's all what we had. 

Built in 1847 on Hollywood Road, Man Mo Temple is one of Hong Kong’s oldest temples, dedicated to Man Cheong, the God of Literature, and Kwan Tai, the God of Martial Arts. For generations it has symbolized scholarship, loyalty, protection, and balance, a sanctuary where students once prayed for success in imperial examinations and where today both locals and visitors still come seeking guidance, blessings, and solace. And it continues to this day.

Stories and legends add another layer to this sacred place. One of the most famous is the tale of Lin Sheng, a Qing Dynasty scholar who repeatedly failed his exams. After praying at Man Mo Temple and drawing a lucky lot predicting success, he regained his determination and finally passed the following year. His story spread quickly those days, and turned the temple into a pilgrimage site for students hoping for academic achievement.

Today, the Temple remains a living part of Hong Kong’s cultural fabric—a place for seeking prosperity, peace, protection, or answers through rituals such as kau cim (fortune-stick divination), New Year blessings, or Tai Sui ceremonies.

The architecture captivates immediately. The entrance, adorned with dragons and phoenixes, opens into a world shaped by tradition, myth, and ritual. Green roof tiles, guardian lions, stone carvings, and richly painted beams stand out vividly against Hong Kong’s modern buildings.

Walking inside feels like stepping out of time. Like time itself softens and becomes irrelevant. There is a quiet beauty. 

Inside, the Temple preserves a remarkable collection of historical artefacts: a Qing Dynasty bronze bell cast the year the temple was built, an ornate sedan chair from 1862, carved wooden plaques, granite door frames, and traditional murals that reflect exquisite craftsmanship. Centuries of devotion. Everything here breathes history.

The experience is immersive from the first moment. Clouds of incense meet you at the door. The first thing you notice are the famous hanging spiral coils. Large, expressive, almost sculptural, unlike anything we had seen before. They burn slowly for hours, releasing fragrant smoke that drifts toward the ceiling. It symbolizes prayers, rising to the heavens. Everything glows in shades of gold and red.

It pours. It shimmers. It glints.

So that you become part of this movement of vivid colors, drifting incense, and the quiet prayers of the people around you. You can light three small candles for your own blessing. Above you, the lanterns flicker like distant stars. You are surrounded by them.

Sunlight filters through the wooden lattice windows, casting soft beams across altars filled with fruit, flowers, candles, and paper offerings. The atmosphere is dim, warm, and alive with movement, scent, and devotion.

People wander around quietly, full of wonder. Without exception.

The feeling that this is all unreal stays with you, and for a moment it seems as if you’ve stepped into another world entirely.

During our visit, we decided to experience a ritual ourselves. It was the first time we had ever seen a vending machine inside a temple, offering ritual sets and candles like a spiritual convenience store. The screen displayed an entire catalogue: red candles, incense sticks in different sizes (including longevity incense), full ritual sets, protective amulets, wishing ribbons, windmills, and more.

We selected a full sacrificial set dedicated to Kwan Yin, the goddess of compassion and mercy.

We then went to the shop counter, showed our receipt, and the worker called over a temple attendant to guide us through the ritual. Since we had arrived just before closing, this cheerful man looked at us and immediately announced:

— We will do the fast version. We are closing soon. 

My sister and I looked at each other, already holding back laughter, and said okay, expecting that something unexpectedly funny was about to happen.

The process began with lighting the red candles and placing them carefully in their stand. Then came the three thick incense sticks, which we lit and placed in the central incense holder before the statue of Kwan Yin. This moment opens a dialogue with the goddess, the spirits and your wishes, fears, and gratitude. 

Next, the temple attendant hurried us along, handing us the appropriate incense at every step and showing us how to continue. He told us to take the thin incense sticks, offer three at each altar, and pray for our wishes. So we lit the bundle and moved from deity to deity, bowing three times and placing one incense stick at each altar. The remaining ones were returned to the central stand of the goddess.

It was hilariously surreal. Only we could end up having a temple ritual speed-run. Even the attendant was laughing and shouting occasionally:

— Don’t forget the incense for money! Over there! Don’t you want money? Do it quickly—quickly! Ahhh, money. Listen to me!

We all laughed with him. After finishing the circuit, we stepped outside to find another attendant, who collected all the sacrificial papers and burned them in the incinerator, sending the offerings symbolically to the spiritual world.

To close the ritual, we struck the bell and the drum three times each, the deep sounds echoing across the courtyard. Normally the whole ritual takes around fifteen minutes, but in our case it lasted barely five.

Whether or not you believe in the spiritual power behind these acts, participating in them offers a meaningful glimpse into local culture. It’s a moment of quiet, intention, and connection, even when done at high speed.

Man Mo Temple is not just a historic landmark. it’s a living, breathing cultural space. People still come three weeks before the school year to pray for academic success, during Chinese New Year for protection and prosperity, or before major exams and important decisions. The intention remains the same: seeking clarity, fortune, and peace.

Time:

If you plan to visit, remember that the temple opens daily from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Address: 

Man Mo Temple, Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Location:

A short 10–12 minute walk from Sheung Wan MTR Station, or easily reachable by tram or bus along Hollywood Road.

Stepping inside Man Mo Temple feels like entering the heart of old Hong Kong. It is a place where tradition, history, and ritual continue to live in motion. 

Special thanks to our friend, Rachael Chan, for her help in gathering information for this article.