We traveled from Samarkand, Uzbekistan, and kept thinking of visiting the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan. The route from Samarkand was: an hour by car to the Jartepa Border Control Point near Panjakent in western Tajikistan, and then roughly two and a half hours to the very first lake. 

You can make the journey on your own—hitchhiking, stopping at hospitable locals’ guesthouses between the lakes—or you can do it in one day. It takes up to ten hours round-trip back to your starting point in Samarkand with a caring guide. We were told that locals often have empty upper floors in their houses, set aside especially for tourists who may stay overnight. What a gesture.

Without a car, getting through all the seven lakes can be challenging—but if you’re going for the experience, it’s still absolutely worth it. On the way, be sure to grab a traditional Tajik tandoor bread.

The Seven Lakes natural complex lies in the Fan Mountains, in the Shing River gorge. The complex is also known as Haftkul, which in Tajik means exactly the same thing—Seven Lakes.

The lakes astonish with their ever-changing water colors—sometimes they dry up so significantly that you can see where the water once was. There were clear marks on bare ground where the lake once lay. And then, slowly, they fill again, as water flows from the highest seventh lake down through the chain. Just like life itself, vanishing, and returning. Again and again. Season changes.

Lake 1

Nezhigon

The first lake travelers encounter. Its unusual name translates from Tajik as eyelashes, although it has little in common with actual lashes, and there is no clear explanation for the name. Our driver and guide giggled for a while, pointing at their eyes and calling the lake lashes.

The color of the lake is stunningly azure, surrounded by vivid green plants. The scenery was bright. It was so beautiful, it almost hurt to look.

Lake 2

Soya

Soya translates as shade. Many believe it got its name because of lying between high cliffs—its waters remain in shadow for the most of the day.

Lake 3

Gushor

Its name means vigilant, because it is surrounded by steep cliffs, and the area was once home to venomous snakes. The driver said snakes still live here—and laughed.

Lake 4

Nofin

Nofin means umbilical. Its name is believed to derive from its position as the central lake among the seven, as well as from its long, narrow shape resembling an umbilical cord.

Lake 5

Khurdak

This is the smallest of all the lakes. Even the name means small one or baby. We were told, half-jokingly, that it’s known as the business lake, because local children and adults sell handmade jewelry there.

We saw about a dozen children sitting near the lake, along with their young mothers. They were all watching us. This was the most touching moment of the trip. We played with kids, lifting them into the air, hugging them, and laughing as we were kids ourselves.

The children had learned English to talk with tourists. A beautiful Tajik girl asked one of us how old she was and whether she had children. She laughed at the answer—twenty-four, with three children already. Then she pointed proudly to her son, the happiest little boy we had ever seen. We all smiled, and soon we were hugging—holding the children and their mothers close for a long, warm moment.

We looked down into the valley. Then we continued our journey. It still always hurts and makes us happy at the same time to be generously connected with everyone we meet.

Lake 6

Marguzor

Marguzor is one of the most breathtaking lakes in the cascade.

Marguzor doesn’t have a clear-cut translation, but according to linguists and Tajik sources, it may be connected to the meanings vast, wide, or a place where people walk (from Persian guzor, meaning passage or crossing).

This makes sense, since it is the largest of the seven lakes. Locals often share legends and stories featuring Marguzor. Snowy mountain peaks shimmer under endless sunlight.

On the way, we saw vivid red and purple carpets and towels drying on rocks. A family passed us by on a donkey. A few children, a few adults. Two kids, dishes, and vivid carpets—all was placed on the donkey.

Lake 7

Hazorchashma

It is beautiful and you can swim in it, but it’s cold in mid‑May.

This is the farthest lake in the Shing River gorge. Beyond it, the road ends, and only the wild Fan Mountains remain. It’s the highest-altitude lake of the seven, situated at 2,400 meters above sea level. The name Hazorchashma means thousand springs as the lake is fed by two rivers and countless small streams.

After petting the local donkeys, we lay on the grass for a long time. Under a beautiful tree, we saw seven men praying, their backs turned to us. It was so sacred and unexpected, happening right there in the wilderness. We had a privilege to witness such collective faith.

Again, we saw the same migrating family, they walked further into the wild to find their new home.