Samarkand was the Central Asian's capital of silk paper production, a legacy that lasted until the 18th century.
Samarkand paper was of higher quality: smooth, double-sided, and durable. All the qualities that made it highly sought after across the region. Its texture and gentle tone drew admiration, but its greatest strength was its longevity.
To better understand its value: while standard white paper of good quality lasts around 40–50 years, the Samarkand paper can endure for 300–400 years.
The Meros Paper Mill
After a morning spent exploring the incredible temple complexes of Samarkand, we made our way to the Meros Paper Mill, located in the village of Konigil. The name Konigil means clay mine, and indeed, the village has a long-standing tradition of pottery.
Founded by the renowned **Mukhtarov brothers, the Meros Paper Mill has revived the ancient art of handmade papermaking using traditional Samarkand techniques, a wonderful way to honour the tradition of paper-making. Today, the mill employs around twenty people, all dedicated to preserving and continuing this rare craft.
At the entrance, you’re welcomed by a map of the site, guiding you into a charming valley of workshops and pleasant small cafés. A waterwheel called Charkhpalak, adorned with antique vessels that pour flowing water, adds to the ambiance.
At the entrance you are greeted by a guide, truly passionate about his craft. His only goal is to show what it feels like to make this kind of paper and to be dedicated to the tradition.
During a guided tour, we were gently walked through the entire process. The raw material is the inner bark of the mulberry tree. Stripped from between the bark and the wood, it is boiled for hours in a massive cauldron. I watched two masters quickly peeling the bark by hand using knives.
Once boiled, the fibers are pounded in stone mortars until they become a smooth, dough-like pulp.
This pulp is then mixed with water in a large vat, stirred, and strained through a special sieve. The filtered paper mixture is gathered on a wooden mold to shape a sheet.
Each sheet is laid on cloth and pressed to remove excess water, then dried flat.
Finally, the paper is removed and hung vertically to dry for another day.
The last step is polishing. To create a smooth and pleasant surface, craftsmen rub each sheet on a marble table using either a piece of marble or a polished animal horn. Try to polish it yourself. It’s a satisfying tactile experience.
Today, the paper produced at Meros is not only sold as souvenirs, but is also used to restore ancient manuscripts across Uzbekistan and abroad. The ability to produce this paper has enabled local artists to recreate traditional miniatures, depicting court life, poetry, and legends. You can admire traditional Uzbek miniature art at the Museum of Oriental Miniature Named after Kamaliddin Behzad in Tashkent.
Ceramic and Art Workshop
Walking around the complex was a true pleasure. The different areas form a gently designed labyrinth that reveals how local food is being prepared, how traditional paper is being made, and where you can pause to admire various art pieces, talk to attentive scarf vendors, and laugh with them as they try to guess which country you came from to explore Uzbek craftsmanship. Don’t forget to visit the Ceramic and Art Workshop.
As you stroll through and peek into small workshops, sunlight filtering through the branches bathes everything in warmth, making each step feel like a slow, wandering exploration of heritage. The murmur of a river and a birdsong make the experience feel timeless.
The site gently opens to you, attentive to details and yet leaving some space for charming chaos, over small bridges and through greenery toward several privately owned cafés.
One of the cafés and souvenir shops at the very end of the complex is where we stopped. Maybe it was the caring eyes of the workers, or maybe the fact that no one else was in this little paradise. Or perhaps it was the bright, wonderful tablecloths—but we ended up sitting there, hiding from the scorching Samarkand's sun. This place is run by a large, tightly knit family: uncles, aunts, a grandfather, different generations working together to support the business. The father of the family and his son, both artisans, also lead hands-on pottery workshops that you can sign up for.
Sip a tea brewed from local herbs—a drink like no other, especially under the kind sun of Samarkand. Share your tea with someone and listen to their story. Drink again. Don’t hesitate to try different floral blends, which they praise in those lands.
In the sweltering heat of Samarkand, a city shaped like a fairytale and rich in historical gravity, this paper mill, located a bit away from the city center, invites you in, wrapping you in a world of craft, care, and cultural memory. A very hospitable little piece of Samarkand’s village. We will take it with us and share its story with others.